LIFESTYLE & INTERIORS FOR YOU
Recipes
August 19, 2024 – Published in Design & Decor Spring-Sumemr 2024 issue
Integrating Mediterranean and Asian flavours at Kaiseki restaurant
Photography Matthew Mirabelli
Valletta is home to several historical buildings, and one such edifice in Merchants Street, built in 1595, was used for various purposes in the past—including serving as a hospital during the war. In later years, its small basement area was used as a store by street hawkers.
Today, this same space can be accessed down a few steps from the street—and it houses the reputable Kaiseki restaurant.
The name Kaiseki is derived from traditional Japanese cuisine and refers to a small sharing menu—with decorative dishes served in sequence—as well as to the necessary skills a chef is required to possess when formulating this culinary art form.
Chef patron, Noel Azzopardi, certainly holds a remarkable career under his belt, having worked as head chef at several prominent local hotels, including the Hilton, the Hyatt Regency, and the Zest Asian restaurant within the Hotel Juliani. He also worked abroad in Scotland, England, and Italy. Noel formed part of Malta’s National Team of Chefs, representing the island in international competitions, and he won the local Chef of the Year award twice.
Seeking to branch away from the hotel industry and open his own restaurant, Noel finally found the ideal location in the capital city and, in June 2022, he launched the concept that reflects his passion for both Asian and Mediterranean cuisines.
The approach to fusion dining at Kaiseki is very different from the norm.
“The usual practice at fusion restaurants is to provide a Mediterranean menu and an Asian menu—with separate food options,” Noel explained. “At Kaiseki, however, we amalgamate both cuisines within the dish itself. For example, we offer a Carbonara Dim Sum, which is basically dim sum stuffed with guanciale and pork and topped with pecorino cream and grated egg yolks. Another favourite is our homemade traditional Rabbit Ravioli, which we stuff ourselves and serve with an Unagi sauce—made with soya, mirin, and ginger.”
Our mouths were watering while listening to Noel, as he went on to describe how the same concept is extended to the desserts, among them the Exotic Cannolo. The dough for the cannolo is made fresh, but instead of opting for the typical ricotta filling, they introduce a passion fruit and mango cremeux, top the cannolo with a pineapple carpaccio, and add a side scoop of coconut ice cream on a bed of crushed nuts.
“We change the menu between three to four times a year,” Noel stated, “so you may not find these specific options every time you come here. But these are some of the typical combinations that we present on the same plate. We take a Mediterranean delicacy and give it that Asian exotic touch!”
The menu items—including the pasta and ice cream—are freshly cooked in-house, ensuring a high-quality dining experience.
Although the list of delicious edibles is not vast, seasonal ingredients and local produce are always at the top of the list, promoting sustainable practices while offering a tempting gourmet selection. One staple item is the freshly made Italian Focaccia, served daily as a starter with salted butter flavoured with chives. Noel and his team also cater for allergies and food intolerances, adding that advance notice of any special requests when booking will ensure better provision of the service.
Apart from the constantly changing food menu, Kaiseki’s wine list offers a choice of local and international wines, with an upcoming collaboration with Ta’ Betta Wine Estates in Girgenti promising exciting additions to the local wine selection.
The cosy restaurant can host up to 30 guests inside, with room for another 20 outdoors when the weather permits. Noel leads the trio in the kitchen, while three other staff members wait efficiently on their customers. Kaiseki is open for dinner from Monday till Saturday, often reaching full capacity in the evening. Lunchtime is quieter, and daytime opening is reserved for Friday and Saturday only. Private events and small cocktail parties with customised menus may also be organised, since the eatery can take up to 50 people standing, once the tables are removed.
Most of the original architectural features—which are over 400 years old—have been retained.
Six beautiful stone arches span the width of the restaurant, with a lower arched doorway allowing a glimpse into the kitchen. The interior décor displays a modern touch, with minimalist tables and cushioned chairs combining old and new to expand on the fusion concept of the restaurant. The colour scheme is earthy, with the dominant brown hues complemented by occasional touches of deep red—and with light orange added by the two sofas at the back. The modern bar features a chic black countertop and is enclosed by classic maroon tiles.
The striking Ginkgo leaf was adopted as the symbol of Kaiseki—not only because it forms part of Japanese and Chinese culture, but also because the tree is one of the oldest living species in the world, and in fact, its leaves are associated with life, longevity, and hope.
“We are planning to keep the same style and concept—for the near future, at least,” Noel added. “We will continue varying the menu every few months. Everyone loves it, and we are always busy. The many complimentary online reviews we receive are also proof that what we are doing works. And so, we invite you all to come to our small but exceptional restaurant and enjoy our unique fusion experience!”
These 3 tasty recipes can often be found on Kaiseki’s choice menu, which is revised every so often…
Visit the restaurant in Valletta to sample their selection of culinary delicacies, or try to replicate these 3 tempting dishes—as created by Chef Patron, Noel Azzopardi—in the comfort of your home.
BBQ PORK DUMPLINGS
Ingredients
2 ounces lean ground pork
2 green onions, minced
2 tablespoons fresh ginger root, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 package (10oz) round pot sticker or gyoza wrappers
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ cup water
Directions
1. In a large bowl, combine the first 6 ingredients; mix lightly but thoroughly.
2. Place 1 level tablespoon of this filling mix in the centre of each wrapper. (Cover the remaining wrappers with a slightly damp paper towel until ready to use.)
3. Moisten half of the wrapper edge with water. Fold the wrapper over the filling, and pinch the centre to adhere.
4. On each side of the pinched area, pleat the front wrapper edge 3 times, leaving the back side unpleated. Pinch the edge to seal. Place on a baking sheet, gently flattening the base.
5. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the dumplings—flat side down—and cook for 3-5 minutes, until the bases are golden brown.
6. Add the half cup of water. Cover the skillet, and cook for around 5 minutes, until most of the water has evaporated.
7. Remove the lid, and cook for a further
1-2 minutes, until the water has completely evaporated and the filling is no longer pink.
RABBIT RAVIOLI
Ingredients
2 rabbit legs, around 600 grams
1 carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, sliced
1 small onion, chopped
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh oregano
1 bay leaf
120ml dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
20 grams freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1 egg
2 tablespoons olive oil
250ml rabbit jus
You will also need 1kg of fresh pasta dough.
Directions
1. Season the rabbit legs with salt, and vacuum seal them.
2. Cook the rabbit legs sous vide for 8 hours at 75ºC.
3. After the sous vide cooking, pour the juices from the bag into a container and keep them aside.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, and sear the meat on both sides until nicely golden brown.
5. Take the meat off the bones, and set the meat aside.
6. Place the bones in the pan that you used to brown the rabbit, together with carrot, onion, and celery.
7. Roast the bones and vegetables in the oven at 190ºC, until everything is nicely browned.
8. Deglaze the pan with 120ml of dry white wine.
9. Transfer the contents to a smaller pot, and add the reserved sous vide rabbit jus. Cover with cold water. Add the rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, and oregano.
10. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for about 2 hours.
11. Pass the stock through a sieve, bring the rabbit stock to a boil, and reduce to around 120ml of concentrated rabbit jus.
12. After the rabbit jus has cooled down, add it to the rabbit meat, the egg, and the Parmigiano Reggiano in a food processor. (The mixture should not be too smooth.)
13. Place the mixture in the refrigerator for an hour.
14. Open the pasta dough as thinly as possible to make the ravioli.
15. Boil the ravioli for 2 minutes in ample salted boiling water.
16. Lift the ravioli out of the pot with a strainer, and add them to the rabbit jus, or if preferred, to some butter with sage.
17. Toss the ravioli gently to cover with the jus or butter.
18. Serve the ravioli on preheated plates with some freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
MANGO AND PASSION FRUIT CREMEUX
Ingredients
1 cup fresh passion fruit pulp with seeds (I normally use 6 passion fruits)
½ cup (190g) mango puree
½ cup (100g) sugar
2 teaspoons gelatin leaves
3 tablespoons (45ml) water
2 cups (500ml) heavy cream
Directions
1. Strain the pulp of the passion fruit to get approximately ½ a cup of juice.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the passion fruit juice, mango puree, and sugar.
4. Cook over medium low heat, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture starts boiling. Lower the heat and let simmer while stirring for about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, and allow the mixture to cool completely at room temperature.
5. Mix the gelatin and water together in a small bowl.
6. Microwave the gelatin mixture for 30 seconds, and continue to mix until the gelatin has dissolved.
7. Pour the melted gelatin into the mango and passion fruit mixture, and stir to combine completely.
8. Whip the heavy cream into soft peaks. Add half of the whipped cream to the cooled mango and passion fruit mixture, and gently fold until combined. Then, fold in the remaining half.
9. Pour the prepared mango and passion fruit mousse into 6 small dessert glasses, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours to set.
Kaiseki, 77, Merchants Street, Valletta
Opening hours: Monday to Thursday 17.00-22.30; Friday and Saturday 12.00-23.00
+356 79446178
