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February 24, 2025 – Published in Design & Decor Autumn-Winter 2024 issue
Taproom Brasserie & Bar – An authentic dining experience in beautiful Valletta
Words Shirley Jobson
Photography Michael Calleja
When she first came to live in Malta just over a decade ago, business graduate, Dr Kirsy Kullmann, immediately realised the potential found within the alluring streets of Valletta.
Hailing from the Caribbean island country of Antigua and Barbuda, Kirsy had been looking to open a business in Europe. She eventually chose to settle in Malta because of its warm climate, which closely resembled the one back home. Today, she is one of the proud and successful owners of Taproom Brasserie & Bar in the heart of the capital.
“Back in 2015, we were one of the first restaurants to open on this street,” Kirsy recalled. “When I first came here, Valletta’s culinary scene had not yet flourished as it has today. In fact, one of the reasons I opened the restaurant was to have a nice place to go to eat out. Since then, the choice of restaurants has greatly improved, but Taproom has remained very popular with the Maltese, and we have many loyal clients who visit regularly.”
“I love Valletta, but I feel we don’t appreciate its beauty enough!” ~ Kirsy
“It’s true that Valletta is small compared to other cities like Rome or London, but you don’t need to have a vast area to realise how beautiful its architecture is or to feel its positive energy. It is such a gem, which is why I decided to invest in it through the restaurant.”
The décor at Taproom gives off a European city vibe, with a high-end but industrial look that was still quite innovative at the time it opened. The blue cushioned booths sit in semi-circles around the wooden tables, offering soft seating for patrons to enjoy the delicious food in comfort. A few tables outside offer an alfresco dining alternative.
The interior soft lighting illuminates the feature wall lined with old photos in vintage frames, while a long wooden bar counter with padded stools and pendant lights is the perfect spot for enjoying a few drinks with friends. A brick-tiled arched window behind the bar offers a glimpse into the bustling kitchen.
The restaurant is able to host large groups in one intimate setting. In fact, a unique idea that was developed by the team is the sharing table concept, where people from all walks of life can mingle, sit together, and share meals.
Taproom started being recognised through a number of awards for its design and cuisine almost as soon as it opened.
Among other accolades, the eatery received the 2017 Restaurant Award Winner from The Definitive(ly) Good Guide Co and the 2022 Diners’ Choice Award on Bookia. Taproom was also mentioned in the New York Times as one of the top restaurants in Malta and recommended in Forbes Magazine as a must-visit when in Valletta.
Kirsy attributes this long-standing success to her amazing team of employees, most of whom have worked with her from the beginning. “I treat all my staff like family—although I do actually have my sister, Yudy Mitchell, working alongside me as manager of the restaurant. I’m very open with communication with everyone who works here, so they know they can always come to me with any issues.”
The Italian head chef at Taproom, Davide Bortolloto, creates appetising and homemade dishes by using fresh local produce.
This is especially important for Kirsy, as she is very specific on what they buy and from whom. “I like the energy of the restaurant to be carried by the energy of our providers. I want my food suppliers to be really mindful of how they are treating the animals and the environment. For example, if we wish to offer chicken on the menu, it has to be free-range and corn-fed, even if it is more expensive to buy. I eat here often, and so does my son, so I always try to serve food which I would eat myself.”
“Most of our dishes, including the pasta and the ice cream, are made fresh every day. Occasionally, Davide prefers to make changes to the menu, which is something we often fight about,” Kirsy added with her infectious laugh. “I always insist that some dishes—such as the Taproom Tagliatelle or the Sea Bass Ceviche, which is my own secret recipe—are never to be removed from our menu!”
Kirsy has no immediate plans for any extensive changes at Taproom—except to keep making her customers happy!
Ensuring high standards of service and culinary offerings that have always remained consistent, Kirsy is happy to maintain the present formula.
She has no intention to leave Valletta yet, and apart from Taproom, she is in the process of opening a boutique hotel, as well as planning to open a new restaurant very soon—both within the capital city she loves so much.
“There’s still a lot that needs to be done for Valletta, though,” she pondered. “I don’t think there’s enough emphasis being placed on how certain places look or what type of music is being played all over the city. I believe we need to be better focused and think more about quality rather than quantity—and, if I may say so, this goes for Malta as a whole as well.”
“If we attract people who truly appreciate our culture, our history, our food, and all the beautiful places here, they will help to support them, not destroy them. And that is what I want to see for Valletta, because then, it’s not just Taproom but everybody on our islands who will benefit!”
Taproom Valletta Brasserie & Bar
53a, Old Theatre Street, Valletta, Malta
+356 2749 1316
https://www.facebook.com/TaproomValletta
https://www.instagram.com/taproomvalletta
Opening hours:
Sunday-Thursday: 12.00-23.00
Friday & Saturday: 12.00-00.00
